Macedonians and the Coney Dog

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  • vicsinad
    Senior Member
    • May 2011
    • 2337

    Macedonians and the Coney Dog

    Here's a story about Macedonians and the coney hot dogs that are famous in the Midwest USA. There are debates about when and how the Coney became famous in our lands, but most evidence points to the Macedonians. Coney Islands used to be operated by mostly Macedonians, usually Macedonians from Greece, and Greeks. Now most are operated by Albanians and Middle Easterners, while some are still operated by Greeks, and few by Macedonians. Here is a story of some Macedonians retiring from the business in Michigan:



    Customers say goodbye to David and Jimmy Todorovsky as they hang up their aprons on their last shift, handing over ownership of Atlas Coney Island on Tuesday, March 21, 2017 a the restaurant, located at 3833 Corunna Road in Flint. The brothers were both born in Greece -- David in 1933 and Jimmy a year later in 1934, spending their childhood in Europe. They fled to Macedonia because of World War II. Their father brought them to Flint from Macedonia in 1954. In 1980, they purchased Atlas Coney Island on Corunna Road in Flint and have been there ever since. For the last 37 years, they’ve been operating restaurant, which is open 24 hours a day, seven days a week. David and Jimmy each take turns working 12 hour shifts, and haven’t missed a beat, even into their 80s. Since 1980, they have served over 4 million meals out of Atlas Coney Island.

    FLINT, Mich. >> Atlas Coney Island was a place you could usually find more than homemade food and original Flint-style coneys.

    It was where you could find friendship and were treated like family. It’s where Jimmy and David Todorovsky chose to plant their family’s roots.

    “Both of them have big hearts and are true to heart,” said David’s daughter, Anastasia Pirkovic. “They are so compassionate for what they do, and they treat people like family ... They were giving people and warm, and never snooty, like, ‘Oh, because I’m a business man I’m going to have my nose up in the air,’ no. They were never like that. They were never into fancy-shmancy gold and diamonds and stuff like that. They were normal, down-to-earth people that respected everyone.”

    Jimmy, 82, and David, 84, sat in their favorite red booth Tuesday, March 21, speaking softly to each other in Macedonian, their first language, as they finished one of their last shifts at the Corunna Road restaurant.

    They bought the restaurant in 1980, but have worked together since 1953.

    Every few minutes, their conversation was interrupted by a visitor — a former employee or a longtime customer turned family friend — who stopped to chat and snap a photo with the brothers. Each person was greeted by name and with a smile.

    Katharine Wright stopped by Tuesday to see the brothers because her mother, Myra, couldn’t make it in. Myra Wright worked as a waitress at Atlas for 29 years — even before the brothers bought the place. She retired in 2010.

    “My mother thinks of these two as like her brothers,” Wright said.

    Jimmy agreed.

    “They were like family, like right away,” Wright said. “My parents have both been sick the past few years, and when I’d go to the hospital, afterward I’d stop in here to give Jimmy and David the update. Jimmy would send home rice pudding, and David would make sure my mother got an omelet.”

    Of course, the brothers remember Myra well. But, they also remember dozens of other people who wished them farewell in person and on Facebook after the restaurant announced their retirement.

    Atlas responded to many commenters — most just offering well wishes — with specific memories and dates placing people in the business at a certain time and with certain people.

    On one woman’s comment, Atlas responded, “Jackie, you worked with Jimmy and David at the Ritz just out of high school, I think. And then at Atlas also! You go way back with them. Back with Truly, Clara, and Joe at the Ritz.”

    It doesn’t surprise Wava Valliere, who was promptly told, “I know,” when she re-introduced herself to the brothers Tuesday as “Freddy’s sister.”

    “I know you do. I was just making sure. (David) never forgets. He never forgets a thing,” Valliere said.

    Valliere stopped in Tuesday to say goodbye to the brothers. The brothers met her and her family in 1957 and grew closer with them through the years.

    And that’s how it happened with everyone.

    The Flint Journal reports that born in Greece, the brothers spent childhood in Europe. They fled to Macedonia during World War II before their father brought them to Flint in 1953.

    Their father opened and operated Central Luncheon on South Saginaw Street in downtown Flint. Then, they bought the Ritz Drive Inn on Hemphill and South Saginaw streets where they started selling coneys to General Motors employees.

    And if you ask their family, there’s no question it was the original coney.

    “The coney was designed for these people at General Motors ... They worked so many hours at the plant because production was seven days a week and there was no time to eat,” Pirkovic said. “The coney was designed to be hot, nutritious and filling. That’s how the coney came about ... We are the original. I don’t care what anybody says. It started here with the Macedonians way back.”

    The dynamic of Flint’s economy changed over the years, and Atlas went through some changes — it eventually had to specify that its coneys were “Flint-style” as the customer base shifted from GM workers to many out-of-towners.

    “You gotta do what you gotta do to survive,” Pirkovic said, laughing.

    The brothers saw many more changes in their business and in the Flint area over the years, too.

    In 1967, they opened the Ritz Lounge & Steak House on South Saginaw Street in Burton.

    Then, in 1980, they bought Atlas.

    There, they’ve tag-teamed the days so at least one of them was always at the restaurant.

    One would come in at 5 a.m. and work for 12 hours before the other came in to relieve him.

    “It was tough working with family sometimes, but they each had their duties. And after all those years, they learned each other’s habits,” Pirkovic said.

    Now, they not only finish each other’s sentences, but they sometimes say the same things at the same time.

    Looking forward to relaxing after decades of 12-hour shifts, the brothers say — simultaneously — that there is one thing they will miss: the customers.

    “We’re kind of exhausted. Kind of sad in a way. But we’ll be glad when it’s over,” David said.

    It hasn’t fully hit them that they won’t be at the restaurant every day, Pirkovic said, but she’s confident the friendships they created will still remain.

    “I have a food service business and he’ll come into my establishment, and he knows everybody. He’ll go table to table talking to people. Wherever he goes, he knows somebody, and he always remembers their name,” she said, laughing.
    Last edited by vicsinad; 03-29-2017, 10:49 AM.
  • vicsinad
    Senior Member
    • May 2011
    • 2337

    #2
    From Wikipedia:

    Indiana[edit]

    Coney Islands at Ft. Wayne's Famous Coney Island Wiener Stand
    Ft. Wayne's Famous Coney Island Wiener Stand was opened in 1914 by three now-unknown Macedonian immigrants. Vasil Eschoff, another Macedonian immigrant, purchased an interest from one of the original owners in 1916. Eschoff's descendants have operated the restaurant since.[4] The Coney Island in Fort Wayne is described as a small, fatty pink hot dog with a "peppery-sweet" coney sauce on a soft bun.[1]:234 However, the ground beef-based coney sauce at Ft. Wayne's Famous Coney Island Wiener Stand has the flavor and consistency of a mild peppered savory pork sausage, reflecting its Macedonian heritage. The small hot dog is grilled on a flattop, placed in a steamed bun, yellow mustard applied, then a few teaspoonfuls of the savory chili sauce are added which is then topped with chopped yellow onion.

    Michigan[edit]
    Jane and Michael Stern, writing in 500 Things to Eat Before it's Too Late note that "there's only one place to start [to pinpoint the top Coney Islands], and that is Detroit. Nowhere is the passion for them more intense."[1]:233

    The Coney Island developed in Michigan is a natural-casing beef or beef and pork European-style Wiener Würstchen (Vienna sausage) of German origin, topped with a beef heart-based sauce, one or two stripes of yellow mustard and diced or chopped onions. The variety is a fixture in Flint,[5] Detroit, Jackson, Kalamazoo, and southeastern Michigan.[6] The style originated in the early 20th century, with competing claims from American and Lafayette Coney Islands (1917)[7] in Detroit, and Todoroff's Original Coney Island (1914) in Jackson.[6] The longest continuously operated Coney Island (in the same location) is in Kalamazoo (1915).[8]


    Detroit style[edit]

    Competing neighboring Coney restaurants in Detroit
    In Detroit historically many Greek and Macedonian immigrants operated Coney islands, or restaurants serving Detroit Coney dogs. By 2012 many Albanians began operating them as well.[9] The Greeks established Onassis Coney Island, which has closed. Greek immigrants established the Coney chains Kerby's Koney Island, Leo's Coney Island, and National Coney Island during the 1960s and early 1970s. All three chains sell some Greek food items with Coney dogs. National has most of its restaurants on the east side of the city, and Kerby's and Leo's have the bulk of their restaurants on the west side of the Detroit area.[10]

    Comment

    • vicsinad
      Senior Member
      • May 2011
      • 2337

      #3
      There's also the Flint style started by a Macedonian:

      Flint style is characterized by a dry hot dog topping made with a base of ground beef heart, which is ground to a consistency of fine-ground beef.[11] Some assert that in order to be an "authentic" Flint coney, the hot dog must be a Koegel coney and the sauce by Angelo's, which opened in 1949.[5][12] However, the sauce was originally developed by a Macedonian in 1924, Simion P. (Sam) Brayan, for his Flint's Original Coney Island restaurant. Brayan was the one who contracted with Koegel Meat Company to make the coney they still make today, also contracting with Abbott's Meat to provide the fine-grind beef heart sauce base. Abbott's still makes Brayan's 1924 sauce base available to restaurants through the Koegel Meat Company. Restaurants then add chopped onions sautéed in beef tallow, along with their own spice mix and other ingredients, to Abbott's sauce base to make their sauce.[11]
      And the Macedonian Jackson style:

      Jackson style uses a topping of either ground beef or ground beef heart, onions and spices. The sauce is traditionally a thick hearty one whether ground beef or ground beef heart is used. This meat sauce is applied on a quality hotdog in a steamed bun and then topped with diced or chopped onions and a stripe of mustard. The Todoroffs' restaurants were some of the earlier locations for Jackson coneys beginning in 1914. However, those locations are now closed. The company currently manufactures and distribute their coney sauce for retail purchase at supermarkets or other restaurants.
      The Ohio Macedonian style:

      In Cincinnati, a "coney" is a hot dog topped with Cincinnati chili, usually with mustard and chopped onions. A "cheese coney" adds a final topping of shredded cheddar cheese. The dish was developed by Macedonian immigrants Tom and John Kardjieff, founders of Empress Chili, in 1922. The coney topping is also used as a topping for spaghetti, a dish called a "two-way" or chili spaghetti.

      Comment

      • Phoenix
        Senior Member
        • Dec 2008
        • 4671

        #4
        Vic,

        Are the Coney Dogs nice to eat...?

        I heard of the Coney Dog just recently when I was watching something on TV...(it was a show with the US chef, Michael Symon)...they looked ok, can't really say that I've seen them anywhere in Australia (?)

        Maybe the Australian hipsters haven't caught onto them yet...the aussie hipsters are still marvelling at this thing called a 'hamburger'...I think they're (aussie hipsters) still hypnotised (or drunk) on kimchi...

        Comment

        • vicsinad
          Senior Member
          • May 2011
          • 2337

          #5
          Originally posted by Phoenix View Post
          Vic,

          Are the Coney Dogs nice to eat...?

          I heard of the Coney Dog just recently when I was watching something on TV...(it was a show with the US chef, Michael Symon)...they looked ok, can't really say that I've seen them anywhere in Australia (?)

          Maybe the Australian hipsters haven't caught onto them yet...the aussie hipsters are still marvelling at this thing called a 'hamburger'...I think they're (aussie hipsters) still hypnotised (or drunk) on kimchi...
          I'm not a big fan, but a lot of people are and the Coney dog and the restaurants are very popular in Michigan. Here in Vermont they actually call the Coney dog the Michigan dog.

          I don't know if hipsters will catch onto them, Coney dogs are usually associated with fast food or diner food, nothing hipsters are really big into...

          Comment

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